Piercing jewellery sizing: how to choose gauge, length and diameter
What is gauge?
Jewellery thickness is given in gauge (g) or millimetres. 20g = 0.8 mm, 18g = 1.0 mm, 16g = 1.2 mm, 14g = 1.6 mm, 12g = 2.0 mm.
Common starting thicknesses
- Lobe: 1.0–1.2 mm
- Helix, tragus, conch: 1.2 mm
- Nose: 0.8–1.0 mm
- Septum: 1.2 mm
- Navel: 1.6 mm
Length
Bar length and ring diameter are determined by the spot and tissue thickness. For the first jewellery, a slightly longer bar is preferred to allow for swelling.
Finding your own size
The piercer determines the right size by looking at your anatomy. For a healed piercing, measure your current jewellery and use the same size when changing.
Consequences of the wrong size
Jewellery that is too thin can cause tearing and migration, and jewellery that is too thick puts pressure on the piercing. The wrong length leads to irritation and snagging.
Gauge and thickness
Gauge (G) indicates the thickness of the jewellery, and the larger the number, the thinner the jewellery. Common sizes: 16G ≈ 1.2 mm, 14G ≈ 1.6 mm, 18G ≈ 1.0 mm. Generally 16G–18G is used for the lobe, 16G for cartilage and 14G for the navel.
Length and diameter
Bar length and ring diameter are given in millimetres. The first jewellery is chosen long to allow for swelling and shortened once healed. For rings, the diameter is the width measured from the centre of the hole; a ring that is too small puts on pressure.
How do you find your size?
The most reliable way is a measurement by your piercer. You can also check our size guide and size chart. If you are not sure, book an appointment and get measured before buying jewellery.
How to read the gauge system
Gauge (g) is inversely proportional: the larger the number, the thinner the jewellery. For example, 16g is about 1.2 mm and 14g is about 1.6 mm thick. Sellers also state it in millimetres; always check the mm value to avoid confusion. The thickness is the same as the needle used for the piercing, and the first jewellery should be this size.
How to choose length and diameter
Bar length is determined by the thickness of the tissue and the allowance for swelling. Ring diameter is chosen according to the shape of the ear or nose. The first jewellery is usually long to leave room for swelling and is shortened later. So use size charts as a starting reference; a measurement by your piercer is essential for an exact size.
Sizing mistakes and their consequences
Jewellery that is too thin cuts the tissue, and jewellery that is too thick puts pressure on the piercing. A bar that is too short leads to embedding, and one that is too long causes constant movement. When choosing a size, think about comfort and healing, not just looks.
Size help when shopping online
When buying jewellery online, check the size of your current jewellery. You can read the size guide and jewellery details on our shop pages and message us if you are not sure. We are happy to answer questions to help you avoid ordering the wrong size.
An example of using the size chart
For example, the common starting thickness for the earlobe is 1.0–1.2 mm; the bar length may be around 6–8 mm. For cartilage, a thickness of 1.2–1.6 mm and a length of 8–10 mm for swelling are preferred. These values are averages; if your ear thickness is different, the piercer's measurement is what counts. When shopping online, check the inner diameter, bar length and end size separately.
Checking the size at home
You can measure the thickness of your current jewellery with a digital caliper or look at the mm value on the seller's product page. If you don't have a caliper, your piercer will measure it. Ordering without measuring increases the hassle of returns and exchanges, so messaging us when you are not sure is the most practical solution.
Common mistakes
- Buying jewellery without knowing your size
- “Guessing” the length
This article is for general information and is not a substitute for medical advice. Consult your piercer or doctor about your personal situation.
Official and reliable sources
Not sure? For a short free consultation at the studio book an appointment or browse our jewellery.
FAQ
How do I know my size?
Check the stamp on your current jewellery or ask the studio.
How do gauge sizes convert?
18g = 1.0 mm, 16g = 1.2 mm, 14g = 1.6 mm.
When is the length shortened?
With downsizing, once the swelling has gone down.
This content is for general information only and does not replace medical diagnosis or treatment.