Surgical steel piercing jewellery: what do 316L and ASTM F138 mean?

The “surgical steel” label

The name “surgical steel” is used very broadly on the market and not every product has the same quality. Those that meet the APP standard are certified to ASTM F138 or ISO 5832-1.

The nickel issue

Steel alloy contains nickel; nickel release from certified steel is very low, but allergies can occur in sensitive people. If you suspect sensitivity, choose titanium.

When is it suitable?

Healthy skin and high-quality steel jewellery are trouble-free for many people. It is also among the materials accepted by the APP for fresh piercings.

Signs of quality

• The standard should be stated and documented.
• The surface should be polished smooth like a mirror.
• Internally threaded designs should be preferred.

Steel or titanium?

Budget and allergies decide. In general, titanium can be used for a new piercing and quality steel for later changes.

What is 316L?

316L is a low-carbon grade of stainless steel. For piercings, implant-grade steel should meet the ASTM F138 or ISO 5832-1 standard. The non-standard term “surgical steel” is a marketing term and offers no guarantee.

The nickel issue

Surgical steel contains nickel. In implant-grade steel, the nickel is tightly bound within the steel, so release is low; still, people with nickel sensitivity should go for titanium or niobium.

Who is it suitable for?

For those without sensitivity looking for an affordable option, steel with a verified standard is a reasonable choice. Titanium is preferred for a new piercing; steel can be considered for a healed piercing if its standard is documented.

The difference between 316L and 316LVM

316L is a low-carbon stainless steel. 316LVM is a version remelted under vacuum to make it purer and more homogeneous. Implant-grade steel is defined by standards such as ASTM F138. The term “surgical steel” alone does not mean a standard; you need to ask the seller for the standard and certificate.

The nickel issue

Steel contains nickel. Although standard steel is produced to keep the nickel bound, it can cause allergies in sensitive people. If you have a nickel allergy, it is safer to avoid steel in a fresh piercing and choose titanium or niobium. Steel is a reasonable choice for people with healed piercings and no allergy problems, but it is not the first choice for fresh piercings.

Comparison with titanium and price

Steel is heavier than titanium and usually cheaper. Weight can be an issue with cartilage and large jewellery. For the price advantage, shop without compromising on quality and make sure it is implant grade. Low-quality “steel” jewellery can cause problems such as surface roughness and excessive nickel release.

Care and lifespan

Steel jewellery is sturdy and scratch-resistant. Clean it with lukewarm water and soap. If the surface is damaged, oxidised or scratched, replace the jewellery. Making sure everything that touches the pierced area is smooth protects healing.

When should you choose steel?

For people with no history of allergies who care about their budget and have a healed piercing, quality steel is a reasonable option. Still, titanium or niobium takes priority for fresh piercings. When buying steel jewellery, check the standard (ASTM F138 or ISO 5832-1) and the smoothness of the surface.

Surface quality in steel jewellery

The surface of quality steel jewellery is mirror-bright and smooth. Microscopic roughness can cause bacteria to adhere and irritation. Piercers supply jewellery polished, with rounded, clean edges.

Common mistakes

• Buying cheap steel without asking about the standard
• Insisting on nickel jewellery despite itching

This article is for general information and is not a substitute for medical advice. Consult your piercer or doctor about your personal situation.

Official and reliable sources

• APP: Minimum standards for initial jewellery

FAQ

Are 316L and F138 the same?

316L is a type of alloy; F138 is an implant-quality standard. Jewellery should be certified to F138.

Does steel jewellery tarnish?

Quality steel doesn't tarnish; if it does, its quality is low.

Is steel jewellery magnetic?

Some steels can be slightly magnetic; this alone tells you nothing about quality.

This content is for general information only and does not replace medical diagnosis or treatment.