Solid gold, vermeil and gold plating: which is right for piercings?

Solid gold

Jewellery whose entire body is made of gold. Options include 14k, 18k and 22k. For piercings it must be nickel-free and cadmium-free. Very soft (high-karat) jewellery can bend, which is why 14–18k is common.

Plating and vermeil

There is another metal under a thin layer of gold. With wear and friction the layer flakes off and the underlying metal comes into contact with the piercing. That is why it is not used in fresh piercings.

Gold-filled

Gold-filled is a thicker layer, but it is still not solid gold and is not included in the APP minimum standard.

Choosing a colour

There are yellow, white and rose gold options. White gold may contain nickel in some productions, so make sure it is nickel-free.

Price and value

Solid gold is expensive but holds its value and lasts a long time. If your budget is limited, titanium can be chosen for a fresh piercing and gold after healing.

Three concepts

Gold jewellery is made in different ways, and price and safety vary accordingly:

• Solid gold: it is gold alloy through and through; 14k and above, nickel-free pieces are preferred.
• Vermeil: it is thick gold plating over silver.
• Gold plating: it is a thin layer over another metal; it can wear off and the metal underneath touches the skin.

Which is right for a new piercing?

For a fresh piercing, solid, nickel-free 14k or higher gold is suitable. Plating and vermeil are not recommended for a new wound because they can expose the metal underneath when they wear off.

Karat and alloy

The higher the karat, the higher the gold content; 14k is about 58.5% pure and 18k is 75% pure. It is important that the alloy contains no nickel. Ask the seller for karat and alloy information.

What is solid gold and what does karat mean?

Solid gold means the jewellery is made of gold alloy from start to finish. 14k gold contains 58.5% pure gold and 18k gold contains 75%; the rest is alloy metals such as copper and silver. A nickel-free alloy should be preferred for piercings. However good a high karat looks, you need to ask whether the alloy contains nickel.

Vermeil and plating: why aren't they suitable for fresh piercings?

Vermeil is thick gold plating over silver; gold plating is usually a thin layer. This layer wears off over time and the metal underneath comes into contact with the skin. In a fresh piercing, this wear is a risk of allergy and irritation. That is why titanium or solid gold is preferred for initial jewellery.

Budget plan

Solid gold is expensive but long-lasting. Switching to gold jewellery after healing is complete is both a healthy and a sustainable approach. Starting with titanium and buying your favourite designer gold pieces after healing spreads your budget wisely.

Questions to ask when shopping

Is the karat stated? Is the alloy nickel-free? Is the price reasonable per gram? Is the piece designed for piercings (for example a smooth end, suitable thickness)? Clear answers point to a quality seller.

Gold colours

Yellow, white and rose gold differ in their alloys. White gold is usually alloyed with nickel or palladium; nickel-free white gold should be preferred for piercings. Because rose gold has a high copper content, it can cause irritation in people sensitive to copper. Ask the seller for alloy information.

Protecting gold jewellery

Keep gold jewellery away from perfume, hairspray and chlorine. Wipe it with a soft cloth. Remember that gold can scratch; be careful with contact with hard surfaces. Regular care keeps the jewellery shiny for years.

Common mistakes

• Mistaking plating for solid gold
• Trusting jewellery that doesn't state its karat

This article is for general information and is not a substitute for medical advice. Consult your piercer or doctor about your personal situation.

Official and reliable sources

• APP: Minimum standards for initial jewellery

FAQ

Which karat is preferred?

14–18k nickel-free gold is common.

Why isn't gold-filled recommended?

It is not solid gold and is not included in the APP minimum standards.

Does gold jewellery tarnish?

Solid gold doesn't tarnish; plating wears off over time.

This content is for general information only and does not replace medical diagnosis or treatment.