How to Choose a Pearl Necklace: Pearl Types, Quality and Care

The pearl necklace is one of those pieces that never goes out of style: it looks just as elegant at a wedding, a business meeting, over a casual shirt or as part of a layered look. But the price and quality gap between products sold as “pearl necklaces” is huge. In this guide we cover pearl types, the factors that determine quality, the right length, tips to help tell real from imitation, and pearl care.

Types of pearls

A natural pearlis a pearl produced by an oyster without human intervention; today it is extremely rare and mostly found in antique or collector pieces. The vast majority of real pearls on the market are cultured pearls: a nucleus or piece of tissue is placed inside the mollusc, and the mollusc itself produces the nacre layers. In other words, a cultured pearl is also a real pearl.

• Freshwater pearls: Grown in mussels in lakes and rivers. They come in white, pink, peach and lilac tones and in round, oval or irregular (baroque) shapes. They are the most accessible type of real pearl.
• Akoya pearls: Grown in salt water; usually 6–9 mm, known for being very round with a mirror-like luster. This is the type people picture when they think of a classic white pearl necklace.
• Tahitian pearls: Naturally dark in tone, with grey, green, aubergine and charcoal overtones. They offer a modern, bold look.
• South Sea pearls: Among the largest pearl types; they come in white and gold tones and are among the most valuable cultured pearls.
• Imitation pearls: Made from glass, plastic or a core coated with mother-of-pearl powder. Crystal pearls also belong to this group. They are inexpensive and can be enjoyed as fashion jewelry, but they are not real pearls.

5 factors that determine quality

1. Luster: This is how sharp the reflection on the pearl’s surface is. On a quality pearl you can clearly see the reflection of your face or the light.
2. Surface: Small natural marks are normal; however, blemishes, pits and cracks that are immediately visible to the eye lower the value.
3. Shape: Perfectly round pearls are the most classic and usually the most expensive. Oval and baroque pearls are a more modern, budget-friendly option.
4. Size: 6–7 mm is delicate and everyday, 7–8 mm is classic, and 9 mm and above is more eye-catching.
5. Matching: Pearls in a strand that are similar in colour, size and luster make the necklace look cohesive.

How to choose the right length

• 35–40 cm (choker): Wraps around the neck; works with open necklines and strapless outfits.
• 43–48 cm (princess): Sits just below the collarbone; the most popular classic length.
• 50–60 cm (matinee): Falls to chest level; looks elegant with shirts and dresses.
• 70 cm and above (opera): Can be worn long as a single strand or doubled as a two-strand necklace.

To choose the length together with your face shape, neck length and neckline, see our necklace length guide .

Real pearl or imitation?

A few checks you can do at home give you an idea, but a gemological lab test is needed for a definitive result:

• Temperature: A real pearl feels cool when you first pick it up, then warms up. A plastic pearl feels like room temperature.
• Friction: When two real pearls are rubbed together gently they feel slightly gritty; imitations feel smooth.
• Surface: If all the pearls are exactly identical and have no marks at all, that may be a sign of imitation.
• Drill hole: On imitation pearls, peeling coating may be visible around the drill hole.
• Documentation: For a valuable purchase, ask the seller for a document stating the pearl type and size.

How to style a pearl necklace

A single strand of white pearls is the simplest and most timeless option. For a modern look, you can layer a pearl necklace with a thin chain necklace or combine baroque pearls with gold-tone chains. Sets completed with pearl earrings stand out at events, while thin necklaces with a single pearl pendant shine in everyday wear. For layering ideas, see our layered necklace guide, and for choosing pearl earrings our pearl earring guide .

Pearl care

• Last on, first off: Put it on after applying perfume, cream, hairspray and makeup.
• Wipe it: Wipe with a soft, slightly damp cloth after each wear.
• Keep away from chemicals: Chlorine, detergent, alcohol, vinegar and ultrasonic cleaners damage the pearl’s surface.
• Store flat: Hanging strung pearl necklaces can stretch the thread; store them flat in a soft pouch, away from other jewelry.
• Have it restrung: On frequently worn necklaces the thread loosens over time; stringing with a knot between each pearl stops the pearls from scattering if it breaks.

FAQ

How can you tell if a pearl is real?

Real (natural or cultured) pearls feel cool when you first pick them up, have small irregularities on the surface and feel slightly gritty when two pearls are rubbed together gently. Imitation pearls are usually perfectly uniform, smooth and light. A gemological test is needed for a definitive result.

Is a cultured pearl a real pearl?

Yes. A cultured pearl is a real pearl formed by placing a nucleus or piece of tissue inside an oyster or mussel; the mollusc itself produces the nacre layers. The vast majority of real pearls sold today are cultured pearls.

What length of pearl necklace should I choose?

Around 40–45 cm is the classic length that sits near the base of the neck and suits most necklines. With low necklines 45–50 cm, and over sweaters and turtlenecks 60 cm and above, look more balanced.

Can a pearl necklace get wet?

It is not recommended. Water, chlorine, sea salt and sweat can reduce the pearl’s luster and weaken the thread it is strung on. Take your pearl necklace off before showering, swimming in a pool or going in the sea.

How do you clean a pearl necklace?

Wiping it with a soft, slightly damp cloth after each wear is enough. Ultrasonic cleaners, detergent, alcohol and acidic products such as vinegar damage the pearl’s surface.

How often should a pearl necklace be restrung?

On frequently worn pearl necklaces the thread loosens over time. If you wear it regularly, having it restrung every few years, or sooner if the thread looks loose or dirty, reduces the risk of breakage.

This content is for general information only and does not replace medical diagnosis or treatment.